Sunday, 31 May 2020

Migrating from Google Shared Folders to Google Shared Drives

Migrating from Google Shared Folders to Google Shared Drives

Don't let the names fool you; Shared Folders are very different from Shared Drives. Formerly known as Team Drives (and a much clearer name, in my opinion) Shared Drives were established in part to overcome some of the problems with Shared Folders. Generally, if there is more than one person creating and sharing documents, you will want to be using Shared Drives.

Often groups will have started off using Shared Folders because it is easy and free and already available in your standard google/gmail account. Migrating across to Shared Drives is easy enough but a planned and structured approach will save some pain in the longer term. 

Structure your new Shared Drives

You only need one Gsuite User

As I mentioned in my previous post, If you are a little organisation doing things on the cheap, you only need one Gsuite Business Account to benefit from the main features of Shared Drives. Essentially, this Gsuite user account will become the administrator that will set up sharing permissions on each Shared Drive to share the drive with other standard google/gmail accounts. 

In the drive settings for a particular drive you need to edit
Sharing outside [Organisation A]
and tick 
People outside [Organisation A] can be given access to the files in this shared drive

Set User Permissions at the Drive Level

Be aware that you can't define user permissions at the folder level, only the file level or the drive level. So, setting user permissions at the drive level provides the cleanest way of keeping control of who has access to what file. The only other option is to allow users to define sharing permissions on all individual files within a drive, which can become quite a mess (and far too time-consuming to track if you are allowing drives to be shared outside the organisation). 

In the drive settings for a particular drive you need to edit
Sharing with non-members
and tick
Only members of this shared drive can access files in this shared drive

You can then add individual google/gmail accounts as members of the drive and define their permission level to all files and folders within. Permissions levels are: Manager, Content Manager, Contributor, Commenter, Viewer.

Create Shared Drives Based on Who Needs Access

Related to the previous point, it is logical to create shared drives based on who needs access. For example, you may have the following drives:
- Admin - Common (editable by all staff)
- Admin - Confidential (editable by Admin staff only)
- Program Resources (editable by Program staff, visible to Admin staff)
I find it helpful to include who has access to the drive as part of the drive name. This reminds all staff using the drive who the audience/user base is.

Try to avoid creating too many shared drives. Content Managers cannot move files between drives. Only Managers can.

Consider the staff/volunteers in your organisation, the work that they do and the files that they store. From a master account, take a look through all the different sorts of files that are stored in your organisation's existing shared folders and consider who needs access to what. From here, create a list of the Shared Drives that you need and who needs access to each shared drive. 

Look through the list of Shared Drives you have created. Do any of them have the same or almost the same members and access levels? If so, ask yourself if these Shared Drives could be merged into a single Shared Drive (perhaps with a slightly different name)?

Moving files and folders to the new Shared Drives

Assuming there is only one Gsuite user account, then they are also the admin for the Gsuite domain. Only this account can transfer folders (including their contents) from MyDrive to Shared Drives.

Transfer ownership of relevant files and folders from the original owner accounts to the Gsuite user account. Note that a file must first be shared with a recipient before you can see the option to transfer ownership to them (I don't know why, perhaps a safety check). It is helpful to use the advanced search features in Google Drive to be able to list the specific files and folders that you are interested in, when transferring ownership.

Ownership of all relevant files and folders needs to have been transferred to the Gsuite account from all owners before going onto the next step or you will create a big mess with orphaned files and folders.

From within the Gsuite user account, move these files and folders across from MyDrive to the relevant Shared Drives that you created. Just drag and drop. (Note that it is not possible to move files/folders that are "Shared with Me" to Shared Drives; they must be Owned by Me).

Quick and dirty alternative: just download the entire directory. All files and folders (including subfolders) will be downloaded. Then upload this to your Google Shared Drive. (NB: Google docs and Sheets will be converted to Microsoft Word and Excel format and version history will be lost. Google forms and apps scripts will not be downloaded).

How to delete files and folders whilst preventing orphans

If you have transferred ownership of all relevant files and folders to the one google account then you can safely and cleanly delete them all in one go. However, if some of them are owned by different users (e.g. if you used the Quick and dirty alternative above) then you will have more work to do to delete all files and folders, as follows.

In a shared collection within MyDrive, you need to be careful when deleting folders to make sure that you don't end up with orphaned files and folders

To prevent this from happening for each Gmail user account:
1. create a new folder in Mydrive and call it "to delete"
2. using the google drive advanced search find all files (but not folders) that are located in the root folder that you wanted to transfer. A list of files will be shown.
3. Select all these files and move them to the folder "to delete"
4. delete the folder "to delete". (You have deleted the relevant files for this owner without deleting the folders).
Once you have gone through the above for each Gmail user account, go through it again for all the folders (instead of files). 
I know, it's a pain but it's better than trying to work out which orphaned files are the ones you want to delete and which ones are ones that were orphaned at some other time.





Monday, 4 May 2020

The danger of sharing folders in Google Drive - if you don't understand this you may lose a lot of files

I had used google drive and docs for many years in various community organisations and then discovered to my horror an unexpected issue (that resulted in the loss of many significant documents) and, after some searching, a workaround.

Here's an example of the problem....

I created a shared folder in my google drive (MyDrive) for my community organisation as a central repository for all documents of our organisation. Our retiring president had already shared her google drive of docs with me so I moved them across and organised them in the new shared folder that i had created for all of us. 6 months later, the ex-president cleaned up her own google drive and deleted her old folder of community docs, understanding that I had all the docs in the new community shared folder. However, in doing so, she actually inadvertently deleted those documents for us, too.

The problem is that google drive is a bit unintuitive here, from a traditional perspective. So, there is a high risk of people unknowingly deleting key organisational documents. Documents in a shared folder may be deleted from the shared folder even if the owner is only deleting them from their own separate private folder.

Explanation:
When someone in their google MyDrive shares a document with me it looks like I then have a copy of that document in my own google drive but I don't. I only have a link back to the original document. The ownership of the document remains with the other person.

If I delete this document I am just deleting the link. But the original document still remains in the owner's google drive.

However, if the owner deletes the document, it is deleted for me, too! 

The same is the case if I share a folder. It will contain a mixture of documents that I own and documents that others own. If I delete any document owned by someone else, then it is deleted for me only (as I have really just deleted a link to that document). However,  If I delete any document that I own, then it is deleted for everyone.

Another problem is that files and folders in google MyDrive can become "orphaned". This happens if you put a file in a shared folder owned by someone else and then the owner deletes the folder. Your file still exists (because you own it) but you can't get to it through the directory structure. The solutions below will prevent this problem, too.

Some Solutions:
1. Ongoing manual transfer of document (and folder) ownership to a central google account. Then that central account owns all relevant documents and no-one else can accidentally delete them. However, people will often forget to transfer ownership of new documents they create and whoever is responsible for this system will get sick of hounding people. Various other permutations of this system are all labour intensive (but free).

2. Implement Google "Shared Drives"
Formerly known as Team Drives (I wish they had kept this name). Not to be confused with the sharing of folders in google My Drive that I have been talking about above. This is the best solution.

The most important difference is that document control functions intuitively, like a simple file system on a basic home file server. i.e. when you put a document into a "shared drive" then ownership rests with the drive. When a file is deleted it is deleted for everyone. When it is moved, it is moved for everyone. etc

The catch is that you need Gsuite Busines or Enterprise, or Google Drive Enterprise to access "Shared Drives". If you are a non-profit, you may be able to get it for free. Otherwise, the cheapest workaround is to implement a system whereby you purchase a GSuite account (and a new domain for it) and just a single GSuite user account. You then have this user account manage your "Shared Drives" and grant access to other regular gmail users (google calls it something like "users outside this domain") to be "Content Managers" or "Content Editors" or "Viewers" on the various shared drives s/he sets up. This way, you only pay a monthly fee for a single GSuite Business account (about USD$12/mth) plus annual domain registration fee (about USD$10/yr). 

Here's some more about Shared Drives

Sunday, 29 January 2017

Are you overwatering or underwatering?

Being into permaculture I'm generally not into watering. But, it's hard to avoid sometimes.

An overwatered and underwatered plant can look very similar - dying leaves. However, generally the brown dead leaves of an underwatered plant will feel crispy, whilst the brown dead leaves of an overwatered plant will still feel limp.

So, when to water? To work out it you need to water, poke your finger a few centimetres into the soil. If it's damp you don't need to water. If you water too much, the soil will not have enough oxygen in it for the roots to breath.

Binley has some good detailed information about saving overwatered plants.

Wednesday, 14 December 2016

Best travel money options for Australians


I have spent a lot of time overseas and settled on these as my top picks for ways of getting the most for my Australian dollar abroad.

Citibank Visa Debit Card

This will be on a Citibank Plus Transaction Account.
Pros:
  • No annual fees
  • Visa card bulk exchange rate
  • No commission on foreign currency purchases
  • No fees or commissions on foreign ATM withdrawals*
  • A huge international network of Citibank banks and ATMs. You can use these to withdraw money fee free in places where local banks impose charges.
  • You can set up an Australian account with citibank Australia from any country where you can access a Citibank branch. 
Cons:
  • No travel insurance associated with the card

Bankwest Zero Gold Mastercard

Pros:
  • No annual fees
  • Mastercard bulk exchange rate
  • No commission or fees on foreign currency purchases
  • Free automatic travel insurance when you purchase travel tickets in advance on this card (there are certain conditions that apply - so make sure you fully understand them in the fine print to ensure that you are actually insured)
Cons:
  • You will be charged a fee/commission by Bankwest if you get a cash advance at a foreign ATM*

Honorable Mention: Latitude 28 Degrees Travel Card

Pros:
  • No annual fees
  • Mastercard bulk exchange rate
  • No commission or fees on foreign currency purchases
Cons:
  • You will be charged a fee/commission by Latitude if you get a cash advance at a foreign ATM*
  • No travel insurance


* Foreign banks may impose a fee for using their ATM. In some countries all banks charge. In some countries none do. And in other countries some banks charge while others don't.

Tuesday, 8 March 2016

Work Coordination Manual for Community Organisations and Ecovillages

As a community development worker and especially since we started the Bellbunya Community, I have been interested in the way workload and responsibility naturally seems to distribute itself in voluntary organisations. It appears to me that, in general, a small group of overworked people tend to carry the majority of the responsibility. At the other end of the spectrum, another small group of people rarely get beyond good intentions when it comes to sharing the workload and responsibility. In the middle, the majority of people are willing to contribute as long as there is someone to coordinate and tell them what to do. As one of the small, overworked group in the middle, I spent a lot of time wondering about how to balance things out, to make things more efficient and enjoyable and avoid resentment and burnout.

This downloadable document represents the best of my thinking so far and builds on a model provided by Paul Mischefski. It provides effective tools for simplifying coordination of tasks across numerous dimensions in an organisation and for helping people who would normally be followers to gradually take on more coordination.

The system that I explain here is no silver bullet but, if applied diligently, it makes a big contribution towards a more equal sharing of the load. I provide examples from my community which you are welcome to adapt to your own needs.

Download the Work Coordination Manual for Community Organisations

Saturday, 6 February 2016

Colours of Empowerment - A Simple Tool for Effective Meeting Facilitation

In meetings, how do we make sure that topics flow, that everyone is heard, that everyone understands the topic before discussion about the topic happens, that frictions that may arise in the group do not prevent it moving forward, etc? And what if no-one is comfortable or highly skilled in facilitation?

The larger the group and the more complex the topic the more inefficient a meeting can become. This is because our traditional approach of raising your hand and waiting your turn before you speak does not recognise the multidimensional nature of meetings. A skilled facilitator can greatly help but, even then, will occasionally miss something.

Remember meetings you've been in where people are debating a controversial topic and lots of people want to speak. Lots of opinions and arguments are put forth and the fourth person to speak couldn't understand some key elements of the initial concept. So, everything from the initial point onwards has been lost in understanding and needs to be re-explained once the initial understanding is clarified.

Colours of Empowerment to the rescue! We started using this process for the complex and busy meetings in the early days of setting up the Bellbunya Community to ease the pressure and seemingly endless discussion on so many topics. It worked.

How it Works

1. Everyone participating in the meeting receives a set of five coloured cards, as listed below (in priority order):

  • Red - Process. There is a process issue - e.g. The discussion has gone off topic or over time. We need to stop and reassess.
  • Orange - Acknowledgement/ Emotions. To acknowledge emotions (my own or those I sense in the room) - e.g. expressing appreciation, recognising anger or tension or hurt feelings in the room.
  • Yellow - Clarification. I want to ask a question to help me understand (gain clarity) about what is beeing discussed.
  • Green - Information. I have information that could help others in the mtg understand.
  • Blue - Opinion/ Comment / Idea. I have an idea or opinion to share.
It's good to create coloured cards with the words in bold written on the back to help jog meeting participants' memories. It is also good (especially whilst learning how to use the system) to have a poster on the wall, listing the cards in priority order that meeting participants can see during the meeting.


2. Whenever someone wants to speak or ask a question, they simply hold up the coloured card that indicates the category of what they wish to say.

3. The facilitator gives the next opportunity to speak to whoever is holding up the highest priority card, regardless of the order in which cards are actually held up. Red is highest priority and Blue is lowest priority. So, if, for example, there is someone holding up a blue card, another person holding up a yellow card and another person who later holds up a red card then the red card holder gets to speak first. The blue card holder only gets to speak if there are no cards of any other colour being held up.

Benefits

The Colours of Empowerment bring everyone along at the same pace. In a meeting, we can only progress at the rate of the slowest person and this process makes sure no one gets left behind. We give priority to making sure we are firstly on topic/time (red) and then that emotional needs arising within the meeting are being met (so that they don't get in the way of the process) (orange) and then making sure that everyone's understanding is clear (yellow and green) so that everyone can engage in the sharing of opinions/ideas etc (blue).

This system is not only faster and more efficient than the traditional system, it also:

  • Makes a meeting much easier to facilitate because people are showing what is going on for them with the coloured cards, rather than the facilitator trying to perceive what is happening. This produces good results and makes it less scary for inexperienced facilitators. Group members will help the facilitator by pointing out (for example) a red card that the facilitator has not noticed.
  • Increases group participation. 
  • Democratises the running of meetings through reducing dependence on a skilled facilitator, increasing participation of all people at the meeting and enabling less experienced/skilled people to step up and faciliate
  • Encourages quieter people by providing a level of non verbal communication that validates a whole range of different states.
  • Facilitates greater connection through enabling the sharing of emotional content effectively.




Saturday, 12 December 2015

3 Season Growing Calendar for South East Queensland and North Coast New South Wales

In the subtropics (especially SE Queensland and Northern NSW in Australia) people sometimes talk of three growing seasons (or 3 "summers") - tropical summer, European summer, Mediterranean summer. Each "summer" is perfect for growing the classic crops of those areas. This model has helped me better understand our growing seasons. We generally use it in my community (Bellbunya).

This page is incomplete and I will keep adding to it over time

Three Growing Seasons Summary

Tropical - hot, humid, wet. Summertime, after the rains start our wet season (usually by November/December, but has been late in recent years) until March/April when things cool down. Insects and fungal disease will destroy European and Mediterranean vegetables so grow tropical substitutes. Grow what they grow in South East Asia: tropical beans, sweet potato, ceylon spinach, Brazilian spinach, cassava, taro, pumpkin/melons, yakon, arrowroot, ginger/tumeric.
Cool temperate (North European Summer) - starts in Autumn (March/April) until the dry warm air (about August/September) as it cools and rains reduce. Grow what they grow in northern Europe: lettuce, brassicas (Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Calabrese, Cauliflower, Kale, Kohlrabi, Mustard, Oriental Brassicas, Radish, Swede, Turnip), bok choi, carrot parsely, coriander, tomato, potato, broad bean, sweet peas
Mediterranean Summer - dry air, warm winds. Generally starts about August/September. You need to water (and protect the gardens from digging bandicoots). Grow what they grow in the Mediterranean: cucurbits (Pumpkin, Cucumber, Zuchini, Melon), tomato, eggplant, capsicum, corn, beans.

Tropical (SE Asian Summer)

What: Hot, humid, wet.
When: Summertime, after the rains start our wet season (usually by November/December, but has been late in recent years) until March/April when things cool down.
Issues: Insects and fungal disease will destroy European and Mediterranean vegetables so grow tropical substitutes. Think of what is grown in SE Asia.

Seasonal Tasks:
Fertilise the entire garden with an organically based fertiliser.
Watch out for caterpillars on citrus, impatiens and white cedar.


Plant:
Ceylon spinach (sow direct, vine on lattice, perennial - ensure replacement crop is mature before removing old crop, salad or stir fry)
Brazilian spinach (sow direct, pereneal - ensure replacement crop is mature before removing old crop, salad or stir fry)
Cassava (should have planted in October to harvest in May)
Arrowroot / Cana (plant rhyzomes (?) (shoots with part attached tuber), matures after???, harvest for tubers, peel and cook as a potato substitute)
Madagascar Beans Phaseolus lunatus: This perennial vine produces bountiful crops of beans. Use them fresh as a substitute for broad beans or use the shelled dried beans, cooked in soups, stews and vegetable burgers!
Turmeric (Curcuma domestica), Ginger (Zingiber officinale), Galangal (Alpinia galangal): All three of these common spices find their way into food we eat, yet few people grow their own fresh supplies. Start with a rhizome purchased from an organic market or green grocer. Simply plant out in the garden and harvest garden fresh rhizomes whenever you need them.
Taro Colocasia esculenta: The large, attractive leaves of the taro plant look great in a tropical garden. Plant it where the soil is moist or plunge potted specimens into a pond. One tuber multiples quickly, producing young tubers that can be cooked like potatoes. The easiest way to ensure you get a sweet, edible variety is to buy your planting stock from the supermarket or green grocer.
Peruvian Parsnip Arracacia xanthorrhiza: This root vegetable from South America produces long, cream-coloured, parsnip-like roots. You can also harvest the tops as a green vegetable or garnish. Propagate from root cuttings.
Water Chestnuts Eleocharis dulcis: Few plants are more productive with one corm producing 50 new chestnuts in one season! Turn you pond into a productive food garden.
Yacon Polymnia sonchifolia: Also known as sweet root, this hardy plant produces large sweet potato-like tubers that are crisp and juicy. Extremely productive, its grows easily from stem cuttings or vegetative tubers.
Perennial Coriander: As the heat of summer approaches, annual coriander quickly goes to seed and dies. Not so, the perennial coriander. This low growing perennial produces dandelion-like leaves and prickly seed heads. Keep removing the seed heads as they form if you want greater leaf production. Perennial coriander has a stronger flavour than annual coriander, so you only need a few leaves to provide that great taste.

Summer salad greens - dandelion chicory, nasturtium, green elk, minuba, mizuna, watercress, perennial sorrel
capsicum (sow direct or seed trays, r3 fruity, solanaceae/nightshade, detail),
choko (plant shooting fruit to grow on fence/shed),
cucumber (sow direct, r3 fruity, cucurbit family, detail),
eggplant (sow direct or seed trays, r3 fruity, solanaceae/nightshade, detail),
lettuce (easy, sow direct, r2 leafy, daisy family, detail),
okra (seed tray, r3 fruity, hibiscus family),
pumpkin (easy, sow direct, r3 fruity, cucurbit family, detail),
radish (easy, sow direct, r4 rooty, brassicaca family),
rockmelon (seed tray, r3 fruity, cucurbit family),
rosella (sow direct, r3 fruity, detail),
snake bean (easy, sow direct, r1 leggy),
sweet corn (sow direct, r3 fruity, detail),
sweet potato (plant cuttings, r4 rooty, detail), also non running sweet potato (Ipomoea babatus)
cherry tomato (seed trays, r3 fruity, solanaceae/nightshade,detail),
watermelon (seed tray, r3 fruity, detail),
zucchini (seed tray, r3 fruity)

Cool temperate (North European Summer)

What: cool, not so wet
When: Starts in Autumn (March/April) as it cools and the wet season ends until the dry warm air (about August/September) .
Issues: less insect activity, great for growing traditional European vegetables, especially brasicas.

Grow what they grow in northern Europe: lettuce, brassicas (Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Calabrese, Cauliflower, Kale, Kohlrabi, Mustard, Oriental Brassicas, Radish, Swede, Turnip), bok choi, carrot parsely, coriander, tomato, potato, broad bean, sweet peas

Seasonal Tasks:
Slowed growth during winter provides an opportunity to tackle major landscaping projects like making new garden beds, paving, constructing pergolas or building retaining walls. Small chance of occasional frost. Generally rain should have finished by April but in recent years it's gone until end of June. Attention should be paid to making optimum use of scarce water resources.
Fertilise fruit trees, citrus, passionfruit, native plants and emerging bulbs, then water well.
Plant sweet peas, strawberry runners, seedlings, bulbs, trees and shrubs.
Trim plants that have become too rampant over summer.
Raise the cutting height of your mower in preparation for winter.
Lift, divide, propagate and replant herbaceous perennials.
Plant deciduous trees, shrubs, frangipani cuttings, roses.
Prune deciduous plants and swollen gall wasp stems on citrus, roses.
Relocate poorly positioned trees and shrubs to new areas.
Control bindii weed in lawns (look like carrot leaves) to avoid painful burrs during summer.

Harvest:
Cassava (plant (October) sections of stem including 2 or 3 nodes, harvest (May) as will not grow any more this season and gets woody with age. Harvest by removing entire plant, peel roots/tubers and remove dark areas (toxic). Cannot be stored as toxins (black areas) will grow. Cook like potato - best to steam then bake. After harvesting, cut stem into 6 inch sections and store in slightly damp sawdust until they sprout (October) and can be planted)

Plant: (months just give approximate idea)
March: carrot, cauliflower, French beans, leeks, lettuce, silver beet, spring onion & radish, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, potatoes, sweet corn, sweet potato & tomato
April: beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, radish & spring onion, Brussels sprout, capsicum, endive, French beans, garlic, kohl rabi, leeks, onions, potatoes, silver beet, spinach, sweet potato & tomato
May: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, kohl rabi, lettuce, radish, silver beet, spring onion & turnip, beetroot, broad beans, Brussels sprout, capsicum, celery, chicory, endive, French beans, garlic, leeks, onions, parsnip, peas, potatoes, spinach, swede, sweet potato& tomato
June: carrot, cauliflower, kohl rabi, lettuce, radish, spring onion & turnip, beetroot, broad beans, broccoli, cabbage, capsicum, celery, endive, French beans, garlic, leeks, onions, parsnip, peas, potatoes, silver beet, spinach, swede, sweet potato, tomato
July: carrot, kohl rabi, lettuce, radish, spring onion & turnip, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, capsicum, celery, endive, French bean, garlic, leeks, peas, potatoes, silver beet, swede, sweet potato, tomato.
August: kohl rabi, lettuce, radish, beetroot, carrot, capsicum, celery, cucumber, eggplant, French beans, okra, potatoes, pumpkin, silver beet, spring onion, squash, sweet potato, tomato & zucchini

Warm Dry (Mediterranean Summer)

What: dry air, warm winds.
When: Generally starts about August/September and goes until the rainy season hits - hot and humid (usually November/December but has been late in recent year - could be February).
Issues: You need to water (and protect the gardens from digging bandicoots). Grow what they grow in the Mediterranean: cucurbits (Pumpkin, Cucumber, Zuchini, Melon), tomato, eggplant, capsicum, corn, beans.

Seasonal Tasks:
Prune fruit trees?
Fertilise bulbs, pawpaws, citrus and water well.
Protect seedlings from snails and slugs with non-toxic, iron based baits.
Repot and fertilize indoor plants.

Plant: (months just give approximate idea)
Cassava (plant (October) sections of stem including 2 or 3 nodes, harvest (May) as will not grow any more this season and gets woody with age. Harvest by removing entire plant, peel roots/tubers and remove dark areas (toxic). Cannot be stored as toxins (black areas) will grow. Cook like potato - best to steam then bake. After harvesting, cut stem into 6 inch sections and store in slightly damp sawdust until they sprout (October) and can be planted)
September: carrot, choko, cucumber, eggplant, French beans, lettuce, radish, spring onion, squash, tomato, beetroot, capsicum, kohl rabi, okra, pumpkin, rockmelon, rosella, silver beet, sweet corn, sweet potato, watermelon, zucchini
October: capsicum, choko, cucumber, eggplant, French beans, lettuce, okra, pumpkin, radish, spring onion, tomato & zucchini, rockmelon, rosella, squash, sweet potato & watermelon, sweet corn
November: capsicum, choko, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, squash, sweet corn, sweet potato, radish, snake beans, tomato, zucchini, okra, pumpkin, rockmelon, rosella, spring onion, & watermelon